Astringent – Effects, Uses, and Scientific Background

What Does “Astringent” Mean?

The term “astringent” comes from the Latin adstringere, meaning “to draw together.” In skincare, it describes the action of certain ingredients that can tighten the skin’s surface, reduce the appearance of pores, and have anti-inflammatory properties.

Astringent substances cause proteins on the skin’s surface to cross-link. This results in a temporary contraction of the tissue – an effect particularly valued for oily, large-pored, or acne-prone skin.

How Do Astringent Ingredients Work?

The effect of astringent substances is usually based on a chemical reaction with proteins in the uppermost skin layer. This reaction leads to denaturation (alteration) of the proteins, resulting in pore tightening, reduced sebum flow, and a soothing effect on inflamed skin areas.

Typical Effects

• Refines skin texture
• Reduces skin shine
• Decreases blemishes
• Soothes mild inflammation

Which Ingredients Are Considered Astringent?

• Witch hazel extract (Hamamelis)
• Zinc
• Sage
• Oak bark
• Aluminium salts
• Green tea extract
• Alcohol (ethanol – should be used with caution in skincare products)

Which Skin Types Are Astringent Products Suitable For?

Astringent products are particularly suitable for:

• Oily or combination skin
• Impure, acne-prone skin
• Large-pored skin

For dry or sensitive skin, caution is advised. In these cases, the astringent effect can further dry out or irritate the skin.

How to Incorporate Astringent Ingredients into a Skincare Routine

Astringent ingredients are commonly found in:

• Facial toners
• Cleansers
• Spot treatments
• Face masks

For example, using an astringent toner after cleansing can help refine the pores and prepare the skin for subsequent skincare steps.

Scientific Background

The astringent effect is based on physicochemical processes, particularly the coagulation of skin proteins. These processes are reversible and primarily serve to cosmetically improve skin appearance – a true “shrinking” of pores is not medically possible, as pore size is genetically determined.

References

1. Definition and effects of astringents. Pschyrembel Online. https://www.pschyrembel.de/adstringierend/K0SLm
2. Korting HC et al. (2001): Cosmetic Dermatology. Springer Medizin Verlag, ISBN: 978-3-642-57692-6
3. Loden M, Maibach HI (2012): Treatment of Dry Skin Syndrome. Springer, Chapter: Astringents. https://doi.org/10.1007/978-3-642-19644-5
4. Astringent ingredients in cosmetics. Haut.de – Information Portal. https://www.haut.de/inhaltsstoffe-in-der-kosmetik/adstringierend/
5. Dermatology Group Practice Dr. Witzel, Munich. Oily Skin & Acne – Care Recommendations. https://www.hautarzt-muenchen.de/hautpflege-akne
6. Difference: astringent vs. antibacterial. Dermaviduals.de. https://www.dermaviduals.de/hautprobleme/unreine-haut/
7. American Academy of Dermatology (AAD): How to treat blackheads. https://www.aad.org/public/everyday-care/skin-care-basics/acne/blackhead-treatment