Exfoliation – Effects, Methods & Correct Application in Skin Care

What does exfoliation mean?

Exfoliation is the targeted removal of dead skin cells from the skin's surface. This process occurs naturally approximately every 28 days, but can be supported by skincare products or cosmetic treatments. The goal of exfoliation is to smooth the skin, unclog pores, and improve its ability to absorb subsequent skincare products. ¹

Exfoliation is one of the oldest skincare practices: Even in ancient Egypt, milk (with lactic acid) or fine sand was used to refine the skin. Today, a distinction is made between mechanical peeling , chemical peeling , and enzymatic exfoliation – each method has its own benefits and areas of application.

Why is exfoliation important?

As we age, the skin's natural renewal process slows down. Dead cells accumulate on the skin's surface for longer, which can lead to a dull complexion, rough texture, and clogged pores. Regular, gentle exfoliation can balance these processes and offers numerous benefits:

• Smoother skin surface: Calluses and rough patches are reduced.
• Even complexion: Pigment spots and acne scars can be reduced.
• Fewer impurities: Clogged pores, blackheads and pimples are prevented.
• Better absorption of active ingredients: Serums and creams can penetrate deeper into the skin.
• Anti-aging effect: By stimulating cell renewal, the skin appears younger and fresher ² .

Types of exfoliation

1. Mechanical peeling

This involves using small particles (e.g., jojoba beads, ground apricot kernels, or microspheres) to mechanically exfoliate dead skin cells. This method provides an immediate feeling of smooth skin, but carries the risk of micro-injuries if excessive rubbing is used. Particular caution should be exercised with sensitive skin ³ .

2. Chemical peeling

Chemical peels use acids to loosen the bonds between dead skin cells. They are divided into:

• AHA (alpha hydroxy acids): e.g., glycolic acid or lactic acid – have a moisturizing effect and are ideal for dry, mature skin.
• BHA (beta hydroxy acids): Salicylic acid – is fat-soluble and particularly effective on impure, oily skin.
• PHA (polyhydroxy acids): e.g., gluconolactone – gentler, also suitable for sensitive skin.

Depending on the concentration, chemical peels are available as over-the-counter products (usually 2–10%) or as professional treatments by a dermatologist (up to 70%) ⁴ .

3. Enzymatic exfoliation

Enzymes from papaya (papain), pineapple (bromelain), or pumpkin gently dissolve the protein structures that hold dead skin cells together. This method is particularly gentle and suitable even for very sensitive skin types ⁵ .

How often should you exfoliate?

The frequency depends on the skin type and the method:

• Normal skin: 1–2 times per week (mechanical or chemical)
• Sensitive skin: 1 time per week, preferably enzymatic or with mild PHAs
• Oily/blemished skin: 2–3 times per week, e.g., with BHA
• Mature skin: Regular, gentle exfoliation with AHAs can stimulate skin renewal

Important: Excessive exfoliation can weaken the skin barrier, lead to redness and irritation, and in the worst case, worsen skin problems ⁶ .

Exfoliation and sun protection

After each exfoliation, the skin becomes more sensitive to UV rays. Daily sunscreen with at least SPF 30 is therefore essential to prevent skin damage and dark spots ⁷ .

Tips for correct application

• Exfoliate in the evening as the skin regenerates overnight.
• Never combine several peels at the same time (e.g. AHA + BHA + retinol), as this will overwhelm the skin.
• Always use a moisturizing treatment or soothing serum after exfoliating.
• In cases of skin diseases such as rosacea or eczema, exfoliation should only be performed after consulting a doctor.

Conclusion

Exfoliation is a central component of modern skin care. Whether mechanical, chemical, or enzymatic, the right method brings freshness, clarity, and radiance to the complexion. Individual adaptation to your skin type and condition is crucial to reap the benefits long-term without irritating the skin.

Especially in natural cosmetics , you can now find highly effective yet gentle exfoliation products that use scientifically tested ingredients while respecting the skin barrier.

Sources

1. American Academy of Dermatology – Exfoliation basics: https://www.aad.org/public/everyday-care/skin-care-basics/care/exfoliation
2. Harvard Health Publishing – Benefits and risks of exfoliating: https://www.health.harvard.edu/staying-healthy/exfoliation-friend-or-foe
3. Cleveland Clinic – Mechanical vs. chemical exfoliation: https://my.clevelandclinic.org/health/articles/21847-exfoliation
4. Journal of the American Academy of Dermatology - Chemical peels in dermatology: https://www.jaad.org/article/S0190-9622(11)01910-2/fulltext
5. DermNet NZ – Enzyme exfoliation: https://dermnetnz.org/topics/exfoliants
6. Mayo Clinic - Skin care routine and risks of over-exfoliating: https://www.mayoclinic.org/healthy-lifestyle/adult-health/in-depth/skin-care/art-20048237
7. Skin Cancer Foundation – Sun protection after exfoliation: https://www.skincancer.org/healthy-lifestyle/skin-care/safe-exfoliation-and-sun