Glycolic acid – effect, application & safe skin care with AHA

What is glycolic acid?

Glycolic acid is an alpha hydroxy acid (AHA) and is primarily used in skincare as a chemical exfoliator. It has the smallest AHA molecular structure and is derived from sugar cane or produced synthetically. Due to its small molecular size, it penetrates particularly deeply into the skin, where it has an intensive effect on cell renewal ¹ .

How does glycolic acid work?

Its main effect is the dissolution of dead skin cells (exfoliation). This leaves the skin smoother, fresher, and more receptive to active ingredients. Glycolic acid also promotes collagen production and can thus improve the appearance of wrinkles ² . Other effects:

• Refining the skin's appearance and pores
• Reduction of pigment spots and hyperpigmentation
• Improvement in acne and blemishes through dissolved keratinization
• Increase skin moisture by stimulating natural hyaluronic acid

Typical areas of application

• Anti-aging: Reduction of fine lines and promotion of radiant skin
• Hyperpigmentation: Reduction of sun and age spots
• Acne & impure skin: Solving clogged pores, reducing blackheads
• Dry skin: Improved hydration through increased cell activity ³

Concentrations & Application

Over-the-counter cosmetics typically use concentrations of 5–10% glycolic acid. Products with higher concentrations (up to 20%) should be introduced gradually. Professional peels performed by dermatologists or beauty salons can contain 30–70% glycolic acid and require professional application ⁴ .

Important: After AHA application, consistent UV protection (SPF 30–50) is essential, as the skin becomes more sensitive to light ⁵ .

Safe use in everyday life

• Introduce slowly (1–2 times per week), increase if well tolerated
• Do not combine with high-dose retinol at the same time (risk of irritation)
• Apply in the evening and use sunscreen in the morning
• For sensitive skin: mild concentrations or combination with soothing active ingredients (e.g. aloe vera, panthenol)

Scientific perspective

According to dermatological studies, glycolic acid stimulates the collagen matrix in the dermis, thus rejuvenating the skin. It also improves the absorption of other active ingredients (e.g., vitamin C or niacinamide). However, expert sources emphasize that overdose can weaken the skin barrier, so balanced use is crucial ⁶ .

Conclusion

Glycolic acid is a highly effective ingredient for a smoother, more even-toned skin. When used correctly, it can help with acne, dark spots, and the first signs of wrinkles. With a gentle application, UV protection, and high-quality formulations—like NATURFACTOR —its effects can be enjoyed safely and luxuriously.

Sources

1. Wikipedia (DE) – Glycolic acid. https://de.wikipedia.org/wiki/Glycols%C3%A4ure
2. DocCheck Flexikon – Alpha Hydroxy Acids.https://flexikon.doccheck.com/de/Alpha-Hydroxy-S%C3%A4uren
3. Dermatologist Blog Dr. Essers (DE) – "Peeling with AHA: Effects and Risks." https://hautarzt-essers.de/peeling-aha-bha/
4. Dermatology at Luegplatz (DE) – Chemical Peels. https://hautaerzte-duesseldorf.de/chemische-peelings/
5. German Cancer Aid – Sun Protection & Skin Cancer Prevention. https://www.krebshilfe.de/informieren/krebsarten/hautkrebs/hautkrebs-praevention/
6. Springer Medicine – Glycolic Acid in Dermatology (Review). https://link.springer.com/article/10.1007/s00105-018-4211-7