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Skincare Guide - Ingredients

Cosmetic ingredients – effects, safety & transparency

What are ingredients in cosmetics?

Ingredients are all chemical, plant-based, or biotechnological substances contained in cosmetic products. They determine a product's efficacy, texture, shelf life, and tolerability. In the European Union, all substances are listed on the packaging according to the INCI system (International Nomenclature of Cosmetic Ingredients ).

Legal basis

Ingredients in cosmetics are subject to EU Cosmetics Regulation (EC) No. 1223/2009 . This regulation governs which substances are permitted, restricted, or prohibited and requires manufacturers to conduct safety assessments before placing products on the market. <sup> 2,3</sup>

All permitted substances are listed in the European Commission's Cosmetic Ingredient Database (CosIng) . This database provides information on their function, purity requirements, and regulatory status. 4

Categories of cosmetic ingredients

  • Active ingredients: active substances such as hyaluronic acid, niacinamide or retinol, which specifically target skin functions.
  • Carrier substances: Solvents such as water, alcohol or glycerin, which form the basis of the formulation.
  • Nourishing ingredients: Lipids, ceramides or oils that support the skin barrier.
  • Preservatives: prevent microbial growth and extend shelf life.
  • Emulsifiers: combine water and oil phases in creams and lotions.
  • Fragrances and dyes: improve sensory properties, but can potentially be irritating.

How are ingredients tested?

Every cosmetic ingredient must undergo a safety assessment before it can be used in a product. This includes:

  • Toxicological testing: Assessment of skin compatibility and possible sensitization.
  • Dermatological tests: Checking for irritation potential and tolerability (e.g., patch test).
  • Stability tests: Investigation of whether the ingredients remain stable over time.
  • Microbiological tests: Safety against germs and contaminants.

Animal testing has been completely banned for cosmetics in the EU since 2013. 5

Natural and synthetic ingredients

Both groups can be safe and effective – their purity and stability are crucial:

  • Natural ingredients: e.g., plant extracts, essential oils, or minerals. They are often rich in secondary plant compounds but can trigger allergies.
  • Synthetic ingredients: are produced in the laboratory, are often more stable and can be dosed more precisely.
  • Biotechnological ingredients: are created through fermentation processes and combine natural origin with modern research (e.g. bioactive peptides).

How do you recognize good ingredients?

  • Short, clear INCI lists focusing on active ingredients.
  • No declarable fragrances or aggressive preservatives.
  • Formulations that have been demonstrably dermatologically tested.
  • Transparent communication about concentrations and effectiveness.

Brands like NATURFACTOR rely on scientifically tested, skin-identical and highly purified ingredients that combine effectiveness with maximum skin compatibility.

Critical substances & allergens

The EU bans or restricts over 1,300 substances in cosmetics. These include, for example, certain formaldehyde releasers, parabens, nitromusks, and phthalates. 6

Allergenic fragrances (e.g., linalool, citral, geraniol) must be listed on the packaging above a certain concentration. This transparency protects particularly sensitive or allergy-prone skin types. 7

The role of research

Modern skin research investigates the interaction of cosmetic ingredients with the skin barrier, the microbiome, and cell regeneration. Studies show that targeted combinations—for example, of peptides, antioxidants, and moisturizing factors—can have a synergistic effect. 8

Conclusion

The ingredients in a product determine its effectiveness, tolerability, and perceived luxury. Understanding the INCI list allows for informed choices. High-quality cosmetics – like those from NATURFACTOR – stand for maximum transparency, scientifically tested formulations, and uncompromising quality for healthy, radiant skin.

Sources

  1. Wikipedia (DE): Cosmetic ingredients. https://de.wikipedia.org/wiki/Kosmetische_Inhaltsstoffe
  2. EU Cosmetics Regulation (EC) No 1223/2009. https://eur-lex.europa.eu/legal-content/DE/TXT/?uri=CELEX%3A32009R1223
  3. Federal Office of Consumer Protection and Food Safety (BVL): Cosmetic products. https://www.bvl.bund.de/DE/Arbeitsbereiche/04_Verbraucherprodukte/KosmetischeMittel/kosmetischeMittel_node.html
  4. European Commission: Cosmetic Ingredient Database (CosIng). https://ec.europa.eu/growth/tools-databases/cosing/
  5. Wikipedia (DE): Animal testing ban in cosmetics. https://de.wikipedia.org/wiki/Tierversuchsverbot_in_der_Kosmetik
  6. BfR: Prohibited substances in cosmetic products. https://www.bfr.bund.de/de/verbotene_stoffe_in_kosmetischen_mitteln-10562.html
  7. BfR: Fragrances in cosmetic products. https://www.bfr.bund.de/de/duftstoffe_in_kosmetischen_mitteln-10410.html
  8. Springer Medicine: Skin Care and Skin Barrier (Review). https://link.springer.com/article/10.1007/s00105-020-04725-2
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