Hydrophile – Meaning, Effect & Application in Skin Care

What does "hydrophilic" mean?

The word hydrophilic comes from the Greek and means "water-loving." In chemistry and cosmetics, it describes substances that mix well with water or are soluble in it. In contrast , hydrophobic ("water-repellent") substances are more readily soluble in fats.^¹

Hydrophilic substances play a central role in skincare because they bind moisture, regulate the skin's water balance, and support the skin barrier. ²

Hydrophilic vs. Lipophilic – the difference

The skin consists of aqueous and oily components. Hydrophilic substances bind with water, while lipophilic active ingredients attract fats and oils. A balanced combination of both properties is crucial for effective skincare products. ³

• Hydrophilic: binds moisture, ideal for water-based skincare (e.g. serums, gels, toners).
• Lipophilic: protects through lipids and oils, ideal for creams, balms and barrier protection.

How do hydrophilic ingredients affect the skin?

Hydrophilic active ingredients attract water and store it in the stratum corneum . This keeps the skin elastic, smooth, and resilient. Hydrophilic substances are particularly important for dry or dehydrated skin. ⁴

Examples of important hydrophilic ingredients:

• Glycerin: a classic humectant that binds water in the skin. ⁵
• Hyaluronic acid: can retain many times its own weight in water. ⁶
• Urea: Component of the natural moisturizing factor (NMF); promotes elasticity. ⁷
• Lactic acid: a component of the acid mantle, it binds moisture and stabilizes the pH value.

Hydrophilic emulsions in cosmetics

Many skincare products are emulsions – mixtures of water (hydrophilic) and oil (lipophilic). Depending on the composition, the following occur:

• O/W emulsions (oil-in-water): water-based textures with a light skin feel – ideal for daily care.
• Water-in-oil (W/O) emulsions: richer formulations with a long-lasting protective film – perfect for dry skin. ⁸

Hydrophilicity and skin barrier

A healthy skin barrier requires both hydrophilic and lipophilic components. Hydrophilic moisturizing factors ^bind water, while lipids prevent it from evaporating. If this balance is disrupted—for example, by overly aggressive cleansing—the skin can dry out and become irritated.

Hydrophilic products in nursing practice

• Toners & essences: prepare the skin and increase its ability to absorb active ingredients.
• Serums & Gels: deliver concentrated moisture without feeling heavy.
• Cleaning products: hydrophilic oils and micellar solutions dissolve dirt particles without destroying lipids.

Hydrophilic vs. hydrophobic skincare – the interplay

Modern skincare products – like those from NATURFACTOR – strategically combine hydrophilic and lipophilic ingredients to deliver and then retain moisture. This principle is called Dual Hydration : first, the skin is supplied with water, then protected by lipids.

Conclusion

Hydrophilic active ingredients are essential for healthy skin. They retain moisture, promote elasticity, and form the basis of every hydrating routine. In combination with lipophilic protective agents, they create a stable, moisturized, and resilient skin barrier – the foundation of modern, effective skincare.

Sources

1. Wikipedia (DE): Hydrophilic. https://de.wikipedia.org/wiki/Hydrophil
2. DocCheck Flexikon: Hydrophilicity. https://flexikon.doccheck.com/de/Hydrophilia
3. Wikipedia (DE): Lipophilic. https://de.wikipedia.org/wiki/Lipophil
4. Springer Medicine: Skin barrier and water balance. https://link.springer.com/article/10.1007/s00105-019-04533-2
5. Wikipedia (DE): Glycerin. https://de.wikipedia.org/wiki/Glycerin
6. Wikipedia (DE): Hyaluronic acid. https://de.wikipedia.org/wiki/Hyalurons%C3%A4ure
7. DocCheck Flexikon: Urea. https://flexikon.doccheck.com/de/Urea
8. NetDoktor (DE): Emulsions in skincare. https://www.netdoktor.de/koerperpflege/hautpflege/
9. Charité Berlin – Skin Barrier Research. https://derma.charite.de/forschung/hautbarriere/