INCI – Ingredient List & Transparency in Cosmetics

What does INCI mean?

INCI stands for International Nomenclature of Cosmetic Ingredients and refers to the internationally standardized naming of all ingredients in cosmetic products. It was introduced to provide consumers worldwide with the same information about a product's composition – regardless of language or origin. ^¹

Why do INCI names exist?

The INCI list ensures transparency and safety in cosmetics. Consumers can identify potential allergens or undesirable substances, while authorities have a uniform basis for product controls. INCI labeling is legally required in the European Union by EU Cosmetics Regulation (EC) No. 1223/2009 . ^{^2,3}

How is the INCI list structured?

• All ingredients of a product must be listed in descending order of their weight percentage.
• Substances with a proportion of less than 1% may appear at the end in any order.
• Dyes are identified by their so-called CI number (Colour Index), e.g., “CI 77491” for iron oxide red. ⁴
• Fragrance mixtures can be labelled as "parfum" or "aroma", but certain components that require declaration must be named individually (e.g., limonene, linalool).

Which languages ​​are used in INCI?

The names are mostly based on Latin or English. Plant extracts appear under their botanical name (e.g., Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Juice ), chemical compounds according to international standards (e.g., Sodium Hyaluronate for hyaluronic acid). ⁵

Advantages of the INCI declaration

• Transparency: Consumers know exactly what the product contains.
• Safety: Allergy sufferers can avoid known irritants.
• Comparability: Cross-brand comparison of ingredients becomes possible.
• Regulatory control: Authorities can more easily check ingredients.

How do you read an INCI list correctly?

The first five to seven ingredients usually make up the majority of the formulation. The further down the list an active ingredient appears, the lower its concentration. It's worth paying attention to the order of the ingredients, declarable fragrances, and potential allergens. ⁶

Tip: Helpful databases such as CodeCheck or INCIdecoder make it easier to understand the technical terms – however, they do not replace scientific sources or medical advice.

INCI and “Clean Beauty”

Many modern brands – such as NATURFACTOR – prioritize clear, understandable INCI lists with a few, high-quality active ingredients. They consistently avoid controversial substances (e.g., parabens, silicones, microplastics) and instead use biotechnologically produced, skin-friendly alternatives.

Limits of the INCI declaration

The INCI list provides no information about the concentration or quality of an ingredient. Manufacturing methods (e.g., synthetic vs. natural) are also not apparent. Therefore, an active ingredient may be present in a minimal amount without having any significant effect. ⁷

Allergens & Fragrances

According to EU regulations, 26 fragrance ingredients must currently be individually labelled if they are present in relevant concentrations. These include, among others, limonene, citral, geraniol, and coumarin. This regulation protects ^consumers with sensitive or allergic skin.

Common misconceptions

• "Without INCI" is not an option – every cosmetic product within the EU must list it.
• “Natural” does not automatically mean “better” – even natural substances can be allergenic.
• “Chemical” does not mean “dangerous” – every substance, whether natural or synthetic, is chemically defined.

Conclusion

The INCI list is the foundation for transparency and trust in cosmetics. It enables informed product evaluation and conscious skincare choices. Understanding the INCI nomenclature allows you to identify high-quality formulations – like those from NATURFACTOR – and select products tailored to your individual skin needs.

Sources

1. Wikipedia (DE): INCI. https://de.wikipedia.org/wiki/INCI
2. European Commission: Cosmetic Ingredient Database (CosIng). https://ec.europa.eu/growth/tools-databases/cosing/
3. Federal Office of Consumer Protection and Food Safety (BVL): Cosmetics Law. https://www.bvl.bund.de/DE/Arbeitsbereiche/04_Verbraucherprodukte/KosmetischeMittel/kosmetischeMittel_node.html
4. DocCheck Flexikon: Dyes in cosmetics. https://flexikon.doccheck.com/de/Farbstoff
5. Wikipedia (DE): Cosmetic ingredients. https://de.wikipedia.org/wiki/Kosmetische_Inhaltsstoffe
6. NetDoktor (DE): Cosmetic ingredients explained. https://www.netdoktor.de/koerperpflege/hautpflege/kosmetik-inhaltsstoffe/
7. Springer Medicine: Evaluation of cosmetic ingredients. https://link.springer.com/article/10.1007/s00105-021-04845-0
8. BfR: Fragrances in cosmetic products. https://www.bfr.bund.de/de/duftstoffe_in_kosmetischen_mitteln-10410.html