Skin Atlas
Definition & Application
An archive of mapped terms.
Classified within the context of modern skincare.
INCI List: How to read and correctly interpret cosmetic ingredients
INCI – the International Nomenclature of Cosmetic Ingredients – is the globally standardized system for naming cosmetic ingredients. Those who can read the INCI list can immediately understand what is in a product and can make informed comparisons between formulations.
TABLE OF CONTENTS
What is INCI?
INCI stands for International Nomenclature of Cosmetic Ingredients – the internationally standardized naming of all ingredients in cosmetic products. The system was introduced so that consumers worldwide receive the same information about product composition, regardless of language and country of origin, as Wikipedia explains. In the European Union, the INCI declaration is legally required by the EU Cosmetics Regulation (EC) No 1223/2009, according to the Federal Office of Consumer Protection and Food Safety.
A basic understanding of INCI labeling helps to classify cosmetic ingredients precisely – particularly relevant for people with sensitive skin, known allergies, or those looking for clean beauty products.
Structure of the INCI List
The nomenclature follows fixed rules that apply to all cosmetics within the EU:
- Order: All ingredients are listed in descending order by their weight percentage.
- Under-1% Rule: Substances with a proportion of less than one percent may appear in any order at the end.
- Colorants: These are indicated by their CI number (Colour Index), e.g., "CI 77491" for iron oxide red, as NetDoktor describes.
- Fragrance Mixtures: These can be declared as "Parfum" or "Aroma"; however, individual components requiring labeling, such as Limonene or Linalool, must be listed separately.
- Language: Plant extracts appear under their botanical name – e.g., Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Juice –, chemical compounds according to international standards, e.g., Sodium Hyaluronate for hyaluronic acid, according to Springer Medizin.
How to read the INCI list correctly
The first five to seven ingredients usually make up the main part of a formulation. The further down an active ingredient is listed, the lower its concentration. Particular attention should be paid to the order, declarable fragrances, and potential allergens, as recommended by the Federal Institute for Risk Assessment.
Databases like CodeCheck or INCIdecoder can facilitate understanding of the technical terms – however, they do not replace a scientific source or medical advice.
If you know the first five INCI entries, you know the essence of a formulation.
Allergens and Fragrances
According to EU regulation, 26 fragrances currently must be individually declared if present in relevant concentrations – including Limonene, Citral, Geraniol, and Coumarin, as documented by the BfR. This labeling requirement particularly protects people with sensitive or allergy-prone skin. Those who wish to avoid preservatives like parabens will find the necessary basis for this in the INCI list.
Limitations of INCI Declaration
The INCI list does not provide information on the concentration or quality of an ingredient. Manufacturing processes – such as synthetic versus naturally derived – are also not apparent. An active ingredient may be present in a minimal amount without achieving a noticeable effect.
Common misconceptions about INCI labeling:
- "Without INCI": Every cosmetic product within the EU must carry the declaration – there is no exception.
- "Natural = better": Natural substances can also be allergenic.
- "Chemical = dangerous": Every substance, natural or synthetic, is chemically defined.
Frequently Asked Questions about INCI
What does INCI mean on cosmetic products?
INCI stands for International Nomenclature of Cosmetic Ingredients and is the internationally standardized name for all ingredients in cosmetics. It enables products to be uniformly read and compared worldwide.
How do I read an INCI list correctly?
Ingredients are sorted in descending order by weight percentage. The first entries make up the largest proportion. Substances under one percent are listed at the end in any order. Special attention should be paid to fragrances and declarable allergens.
Which INCI ingredients are problematic for sensitive skin?
For sensitive skin, declarable fragrances such as Limonene, Linalool, or Citral, as well as certain preservatives, should be critically considered. The INCI list makes these substances visible and thus facilitates a conscious product choice.
Conclusion
The INCI list is the foundation for transparency in cosmetics. Those who understand the INCI nomenclature can make informed product evaluations and tailor their skincare specifically to their needs – for example, when looking at NATURFACTOR's Porcelain Skin Serum. Current scientific findings underline the importance of INCI for an informed, sustainable skincare strategy.
References
- Wikipedia (DE): INCI
- Federal Office of Consumer Protection and Food Safety (BVL): Cosmetics Law
- Wikipedia (DE): Cosmetic Ingredients
- NetDoktor (DE): Cosmetic Ingredients Explained
- Springer Medizin: Evaluation of Cosmetic Ingredients
- BfR: Fragrances in Cosmetic Products
