Vitamin C – Antioxidant protection, collagen support & use in facial care

What does vitamin C do in skin care?

Vitamin C is a powerful antioxidant that neutralizes free radicals, supports collagen synthesis, and can even out the appearance of pigmentation. The result: a more even complexion, more radiance, and, in the long run, a smoother-looking skin texture.

Forms of vitamin C and their characteristics

• L-ascorbic acid: the pure, highly effective form. Typically requires a low pH and light/oxygen-protected packaging. Ideal for experienced users.
• Sodium Ascorbyl Phosphate (SAP) & Magnesium Ascorbyl Phosphate (MAP): more stable derivatives, gentler on the skin, good for sensitive skin and daily care.
• 3-O-Ethyl Ascorbic Acid / Ascorbyl Tetraisopalmitate (ATIP, also THD ascorbate): lipophilic, very stable forms – excellent for serums and oils, with a pleasant skin feel and high cosmetic elegance.

Mechanisms of action & visible effects

As an antioxidant, vitamin C scavenges reactive oxygen species produced by UV light and environmental stress. At the same time, it stimulates enzymatic processes that support collagen regeneration. In the right concentration and stable formulation, vitamin C can brighten the skin's appearance and make skin tone appear more even.

Application: How to integrate vitamin C cleverly

Vitamin C is ideal for use under sunscreen in the morning for additional protection against oxidative stress, and in the evening for regeneration. Start with moderate concentrations and increase according to tolerance. Pure L-ascorbic acid prefers low pH values, while lipophilic derivatives can be incorporated into oils and richer textures.

Pro tip: Combining with vitamin E and, if necessary, ferulic acid can synergistically increase antioxidant performance. For sensitive skin, mild pH derivatives or anhydrous (water-free) formulations are suitable.

Who is vitamin C suitable for?

For those seeking more radiance, a more even complexion, and antioxidant protection. Sensitive skin benefits from gentler derivatives, while demanding skin types can achieve maximum performance with pure ascorbic acid—provided the formulation is stable and well-tolerated.

Safety & Compatibility

Vitamin C is considered well-tolerated. Very sensitive skin may experience tingling effects—in this case, start with lower concentrations or switch to stable, pH-low derivatives. Daily sunscreen remains important to maintain the results and protect the skin from further damage.

Conclusion

Vitamin C is the gold standard for visibly enhanced radiance and protection in everyday life. In luxurious, well-stabilized formulations, it unfolds its effects elegantly and effectively – for a complexion that appears clearer, smoother, and more revitalized.

Sources

1. Review: Topical Vitamin C and the skin (Lin et al.) – Nutrients / Antioxidants https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pmc/articles/PMC5579659/
2. American Academy of Dermatology – Skin care & antioxidants https://www.aad.org/public/everyday-care
3. DermNet – Ascorbic acid in dermatology https://dermnetnz.org/topics/ascorbic-acid
4. Skin Pharmacology and Physiology – Stabilization of Vitamin C in cosmetic formulations https://www.karger.com/Article/FullText/490423