Resurrection Plant Extract
— Osmoprotectants Against Dehydration Stress
How desiccation-tolerance polysaccharides from resurrection plants like Myrothamnus flabellifolius can support epidermal barrier function and moisture retention—and what this means for multi-use balm formulations.
Resurrection plants are among the most extraordinary organisms on Earth: they withstand the loss of up to 95% of their cellular water and return completely to a vital state after rehydration. The molecular key players in this ability—especially desiccation-tolerance polysaccharides and osmoprotectants such as trehalose, sucrose, and specific arabinogalactans—have been attracting the interest of cosmetic research for several years, as similar mechanisms may also be involved in the epidermal stress response.
In the context of multi-use balms designed as versatile barrier layers for the face, lips, and body, extracts from resurrection plants such as Myrothamnus flabellifolius, Haberlea rhodopensis, or the well-known "Rose of Jericho" (Selaginella lepidophylla) represent a scientifically interesting approach. Whether and to what extent these plant extracts influence human skin corneocyte metabolism is still actively discussed in dermatological literature—this article highlights the current state of research.
Trehalose, LEA Proteins, and Polysaccharide Matrix: The Molecular Biology of Desiccation Tolerance
Desiccation tolerance is not a single mechanism, but a coordinated network on biochemical, structural, and genetic levels. Three axes are particularly relevant for translation into cosmetic formulations: the osmotic protective function of small compatible solutes, the stabilization of membrane structures by specific polysaccharides, and the antioxidant buffering capacity against drying stress.
Trehalose—a non-reducing disaccharide—accumulates in drought-stress-tolerant cells and, according to literature, can stabilize membrane phospholipids in a glassy (vitrified) state. This mechanism protects structural proteins and lipid bilayers from irreversible conformational changes under dehydration conditions. In formulation chemistry, trehalose is therefore considered a functional humectant with potential membrane protection. For the skin, this implies in theory: a sufficiently concentrated topical application could contribute to maintaining stratum corneum water content—a correlation that appears plausible in vitro models, but requires further validation in vivo.
Many resurrection plants synthesize extracellular polysaccharides (EPS)—primarily branched arabinogalactans and galacturonans—upon dehydration, forming a gel-like protective matrix. These biopolymers have high water-binding capacity and can act as film formers and texture enhancers in cosmetic emulsions. Fermentation-based polysaccharide gels follow similar formulation principles, with resurrection plant EPS representing a botanical alternative with a specific molecular weight profile. The penetration depth of these macromolecules into the epidermis is considered low; the main effect is attributed to the occlusive and film-forming surface action.
Under dehydration stress, resurrection plants activate secondary metabolic pathways and accumulate phenolic compounds—flavonoids, hydroxycinnamic acids, and lignans—that scavenge reactive oxygen species (ROS). Myrothamnus flabellifolius, for example, contains 3,4,5-tri-O-galloylquinic acid and related gallotannins, whose antioxidant capacity is well documented in vitro. This antioxidant potential is interesting for protection against free radicals on the skin, as environmental stress, UV exposure, and cabin dehydration create similar oxidative loads on the epidermis as desiccation stress in plants.
Dehydration Phenotypes: When Stress Scenarios Dictate Ingredient Choice
Resurrection plant extracts combine in one botanical profile what is often covered by multiple individual ingredients in conventional formulations: osmotic protection, structural film formation, and antioxidant capacity. Whether this synergistic range of effects is reproducibly clinically relevant at cosmetic concentrations remains the subject of ongoing research—however, the mechanistic foundation is solid. For multi-use balm concepts, these extracts also offer a formulation-technical advantage: they are texturally compatible with waxy and oily matrices.
Rhythmic Barrier Care: Day Care, Night Oil, and NATURFACTOR®’s Formulation Logic
- Regular, ritual-based application morning and night – timing as an active factor
- Humectant-occlusive combination: osmoprotectant attracts water, balm matrix locks it in
- Non-irritating multi-use formulations for face, lips, and décolleté
- Supplementary antioxidant support, especially before UV or environmental exposure
- Adequate fluid intake to support dermal water balance from within
- Excessive cleansing with surfactant-containing products – destroys NMF and compromises the barrier
- Hot water and long showers – increases TEWL and reduces lipid composition of the stratum corneum
- Synthetic fragrances in formulations when the barrier is already compromised – increased sensitization potential
The Porcelain Skin Serum accompanies the daily rhythm with two forms of hyaluronic acid, pullulan, and bioactive flavonoids from Kigelia extract—ingredients aimed at moisture retention, barrier function, and skin structure. For the night, the Blue Crystal Drops face oil offers a protective film of bioactive phytosterols, bisabolol, and essential oils from blue lotus and blue tansy—formulated for nighttime regeneration and antioxidant protection. Both products follow NATURFACTOR®’s Chrono-Barrier Skin Science™ logic, which views the skin’s day and night rhythms as distinct formulation dimensions. Since resurrection plant extracts are not among the ingredients of NATURFACTOR® products, the brand approach does not stand for this specific active ingredient concept—but it does stand for the overarching principle that rhythmic and barrier-conscious care can achieve more than sporadically used individual ingredients.
For specific skin concerns—such as persistent irritation or pronounced xerosis—medical advice should be sought from a specialist.
Frequently Asked Questions
What exactly are desiccation-tolerance polysaccharides and how do they differ from conventional hyaluronic acid products?
Desiccation-tolerance polysaccharides are plant-based biopolymers—such as arabinogalactans or specific glucans—that are synthesized in resurrection plants under drying stress, where they play a structurally protective role. Unlike hyaluronic acid, which primarily acts through water binding in the tissue, these polysaccharides can create a film-forming barrier matrix on the skin surface and also contain accompanying antioxidant fractions. Both classes of ingredients are to be understood as complementary rather than competing.
For which skin types is a balm with osmoprotectants suitable?
Multi-use balms with osmoprotectant components are conceptually formulated especially for dry, dehydrated, and stress-prone skin. Since well-formulated balms are generally free of surfactants and perfume, they are also suitable for sensitive skin. Sensitive skin benefits from the physiologically robust active matrix of these extracts. For those prone to seborrhea, the balm base (waxy, oil-rich matrix) should be individually patch-tested for compatibility.
Is trehalose scientifically proven in cosmetics?
Trehalose is listed as a cosmetic ingredient in the EU Cosmetics Regulation and is considered safe. Mechanistically, membrane stabilization by trehalose is well supported in vitro; the number of clinical in vivo studies on human skin showing positive effects on stratum corneum water content is still limited. In dermatological research, trehalose is considered a functional humectant with an interesting secondary profile—not a curative agent, but a plausible and well-tolerated moisture support.
Can a multi-use balm with these extracts be used morning and night?
In principle, yes—though the meaningful application differs depending on the time of day. In the morning, the balm is suitable as a final protective layer over a hydrating serum; in the evening, it can be used as a more intensive care seal. Since the skin shows different permeability characteristics throughout the day, a chronobiologically informed approach—protection in the morning, regeneration in the evening—also makes sense in principle for balms.
- Farrant, J. M. & Moore, J. P. (2011). Programming desiccation-tolerance: from plants to seeds to resurrection plants. Current Opinion in Plant Biology, 14(4), 340–345.
- Crowe, J. H., Crowe, L. M. & Chapman, D. (1984). Preservation of membranes in anhydrobiotic organisms: the role of trehalose. Science, 223(4637), 701–703.
- Blum, A. (2017). Osmotic adjustment is a prime drought stress adaptive engine in support of plant production. Plant, Cell & Environment, 40(1), 4–10.
- Mitra, A., Bhattacharya, D., & Bhattacharya, S. (2013). Antioxidant properties of Myrothamnus flabellifolius extracts and their potential cosmetic applications. Journal of Ethnopharmacology, 149(1), 193–200.
- Rawlings, A. V. & Harding, C. R. (2004). Moisturization and skin barrier function. Dermatologic Therapy, 17(Suppl. 1), 43–48.
This article is for informational purposes only and does not constitute medical advice. For specific skin concerns, we recommend visiting a board-certified dermatologist.
