SKIN ATLAS · SKIN KNOWLEDGE · 5 MIN. READING TIME

Keratolysis: How keratinized skin cells are selectively dissolved

Keratolysis refers to the controlled dissolution of excess horny cells in the uppermost layer of the skin – a biochemical process that supports natural cell renewal and makes the skin more receptive to active skincare ingredients. In modern skincare, keratolysis forms the basis for an even complexion and improved absorption of active ingredients.

What is keratolysis?

The stratum corneum consists of dead keratinocytes held together by lipids and proteins. In a healthy skin cycle, these cells continuously shed – a process called desquamation. In cases of excessive keratinization, such as due to acne, chronically dry skin, or certain dermatological conditions, this natural shedding process noticeably slows down. Keratolysis refers to the targeted dissolution of these cell connections – either by the body's own enzymes or by specific active ingredients from skincare, as StatPearls explains regarding the pharmacology of keratolytic substances.

Keratolytic active ingredients

Keratolytic active ingredients break down the bonds between corneocytes and gently remove keratinized cells from the skin's surface, as Garg et al. (2021) describe in their overview of the mechanisms of action of keratolytic substances. This stimulates cell regeneration, refines the skin structure, and improves the absorption of subsequent active skincare ingredients. The most important groups of active ingredients at a glance:

• Alpha-hydroxy acids (AHA): for example glycolic acid or lactic acid – are water-soluble and act on the skin's surface
• Beta-hydroxy acids (BHA): primarily salicylic acid – fat-soluble and particularly effective for clogged pores
• Urea: dissolves excess keratinization and simultaneously contributes to the skin's moisture supply
• Enzymes: from papaya (papain) or pineapple (bromelain) – biologically active and particularly gentle on the skin

Application and tolerability

Keratolytics should be gradually introduced into the skincare routine. Excessive use can lead to redness and skin irritation. Consistent sun protection is necessary during the day, as the reduced stratum corneum increases the skin's photosensitivity.

Keratolytic active ingredients can be well combined with moisturizing and regenerating ingredients. Since they temporarily open the barrier, subsequent serums can penetrate deeper. The combination with chemical exfoliation or soothing ingredients like niacinamide can further support the results.

Who is keratolysis suitable for?

Keratolysis is generally suitable for all skin types that want to benefit from smoother skin and improved active ingredient absorption. It is particularly effective for acne-prone, blemished, dry, or flaky skin. In dermatology, keratolytic substances are also used for psoriasis, ichthyosis, or warts to dissolve thickened horny layers and make active ingredients more deeply available.

People with sensitive or reactive skin should start with low-concentration products and gradually build up tolerability.

Frequently asked questions about keratolysis

What exactly does keratolysis do in skincare?

Keratolysis breaks down the bonds between dead horny cells and facilitates their shedding. The result is a smoother skin surface, refined pores, and improved absorption of subsequent skincare products.

How often should keratolytic products be used?

Depending on the concentration of active ingredients and skin type, two to three applications per week are recommended. For higher concentrations, once a week is sufficient. The skin should be able to regenerate sufficiently between applications.

Is keratolysis also suitable for sensitive skin?

Yes, if mild keratolytic active ingredients such as enzymes or low-concentration lactic acid are used. A slow introduction, short application times, and daily sun protection are important.

Conclusion

Keratolysis is a central process in modern skincare. By selectively dissolving dead horny cells, the skin's appearance is refined, natural cell renewal is supported, and the effectiveness of subsequent skincare products is enhanced – a solid foundation for an even, well-groomed complexion.

References

1. Garg A et al. (2021): Keratolytics in Dermatology – Mechanisms and Applications, Dermatol Ther
2. StatPearls (2025): Keratolytic Agents – Pharmacology and Clinical Use
3. Journal of the European Academy of Dermatology (2024): Chemical Exfoliants and Barrier Function