SeaCALM
— Seaweed Science for Flora Balance and Pore Structure
The green algae extract Codium tomentosum prebiotically addresses the skin microbiome and stabilizes perifollicular structures — a dual mechanism of action that current literature increasingly describes as key to long-term refined pore architecture.
In recent years, the marine algae ecosystem has provided modern dermatocosmetics with some of its most interesting active ingredients — but few have fully exploited the potential of the green algae Codium tomentosum. The extract from this velvet algae, marketed as SeaCALM, addresses two closely related skin concerns: the balance of the microbial ecosystem on the skin surface and the visible refinement of pore structure. Both phenomena are increasingly understood in scientific literature as two sides of the same regulatory coin.
Scientifically, Codium tomentosum is a Chlorophyta that thrives in temperate and subtropical coastal regions and is rich in sulfated polysaccharides, phytosterols, and specific glycoproteins. According to current in-vitro data, this bioactive composition results in a signaling cascade that can have both anti-inflammatory and structure-stabilizing effects on the pore wall architecture. The NATURFACTOR® research team in Hallbergmoos has thoroughly investigated SeaCALM as part of the Bioactive Infusion Complex™ approach — with the goal of describing flora balance and pore refinement not as a cosmetic promise, but as a measurable process.
Mechanism of Action
The range of action of SeaCALM can be traced back to three complementary mechanisms that synergistically interact. The focus is on the extract's ability to act at the interface between the skin microbiome, sebaceous gland regulation, and pore geometry — a triad that is considered central to the appearance of pore size and skin texture in dermatological literature.
The sulfated polysaccharides from Codium tomentosum can selectively promote the growth of commensal microorganisms such as Staphylococcus epidermidis, while inhibiting the proliferation of opportunistic germs such as Cutibacterium acnes. This prebiotic principle of action fundamentally differs from antimicrobial approaches: It regulates microbial balance instead of disrupting it — an aspect that seems particularly relevant for sensitive skin.
In-vitro data suggest that specific glycoprotein fractions of the extract can modulate 5α-reductase activity in sebocytes — the enzyme that converts testosterone into the far more potent dihydrotestosterone (DHT) and thus drives sebum synthesis. Regulated sebum production is mechanistically directly linked to pore size, as chronically overstretched sebaceous follicles can permanently enlarge the pore wall architecture. For oily skin, this approach offers a particularly evidence-based starting point.
Phytosterols — especially β-sitosterol and fucosterol, which are detectable in Codium extracts — interact with the cholesterol balance of keratinocytes in the follicular wall. This can strengthen the membrane integrity of perifollicular cells and thus counteract mechanical pore widening. In parallel, SeaCALM modulates the expression of matrix metalloproteinase-2 (MMP-2) in laboratory models, an enzyme that degrades collagen in perifollicular connective tissue during chronic inflammation. Inhibition of MMP-2 could thus contribute to long-term pore contraction.
Manifestations
The skin communicates a disturbed flora balance and altered pore structure in various ways — depending on skin type, life stage, and exogenous stressors. Understanding these patterns of manifestation is a prerequisite for classifying SeaCALM as an active ingredient.
SeaCALM addresses a frequently overlooked causality: large-pored, sebum-rich skin is often not just a matter of skin type, but an expression of disturbed microbial and structural regulation. Stabilizing the flora creates the prerequisite for pore architecture and skin texture to truly change in the long term — not just optically covered up.
What this means for skincare
- Gentle, pH-neutral cleansing to protect the microbiome
- Prebiotic formulations that support commensal germs
- Sebum-regulating active ingredients that address overproduction without irritation
- Aggressive alcohol toners that destabilize the microbiome
- Excessive mechanical exfoliation with microplastics or abrasive particles
- Non-comedogenic claims without formulating substance
The NATURFACTOR® Porcelain Skin Serum supports the skin flora's diurnal regulation phase with the SeaCALM complex, embedded in the Bioactive Infusion Complex™: Applied in the morning — when sebaceous glands begin their activity peak as part of the circadian rhythm — the serum can support sebocyte balance and stabilize microbial equilibrium throughout the day. In addition, the Blue Crystal Drops address the nocturnal regeneration phase: At night, when epidermal repair processes and cell regeneration dominate, the nocturnal formula supports the structural restoration of perifollicular tissue integrity — an ideal window for the MMP-modulating components of the complex. Both products are coordinated and reflect the chronobiological approach that is at the core of NATURFACTOR® Chrono-Barrier Skin Science™.
For a better understanding of the active ingredient synergies relevant in this context, we recommend reading our article on algae-based marine active ingredients, which illuminates the broader context of oceanic bioactives in dermatocosmetics. In addition, the article on causes and care of large pores provides a structured overview of the causalities that SeaCALM mechanistically addresses. If you want to understand how prebiotic care is embedded in the overall approach of strengthening the skin barrier, you will find further classifications there.
It should be noted that the use of astringent active ingredients should not be considered in isolation: a combined strategy that simultaneously considers floral balance, hydration, and structural integrity consistently shows more consistent results in the literature than a singular sebum-reducing approach. The Balancing Toner concept in the NATURFACTOR® portfolio is also geared towards this integrative logic.
For specific skin concerns — such as persistent irritation, recurrent blemishes, or signs of diagnosed rosacea — professional medical advice should be sought, as SeaCALM-containing formulations are cosmetic products and do not claim therapeutic effects within the meaning of pharmaceutical law.
Frequently Asked Questions
Is SeaCALM the same as a microbiome probiotic?
No — SeaCALM acts prebiotically, not probiotically. This means: No living microorganisms are applied to the skin, but rather substrate molecules (especially sulfated polysaccharides) that can selectively promote the growth of already existing commensal bacteria. This approach is considered more stable in current microbiome research and less susceptible to formulation challenges such as pH shifts or heat exposure.
Can SeaCALM also be used for dry or dehydrated skin?
Yes — although SeaCALM is primarily aimed at sebum-rich and pore-enlarging skin, the available data show no negative influence on dehydrated skin. On the contrary: stabilizing the microbiome can indirectly contribute to barrier function, which can reduce trans-epidermal water loss (TEWL). However, combination with targeted moisturizing care is still recommended.
How long does it take for an effect on pore structure to become visible?
In efficacy studies on SeaCALM, measurable changes in pore geometry were typically documented after 4–8 weeks of consistent use. This corresponds to the biological timeframe of complete epidermal renewal and the gradual remodeling of perifollicular matrix structures. Faster cosmetic effects through accompanying astringent active ingredients are possible, but do not replace the structural latency of action.
Does SeaCALM combine well with retinol or chemical peels?
Generally yes — however, when combining with active exfoliants or retinoid active ingredients, sufficient time separation in the routine should be observed. Since strong peels can temporarily destabilize the microbiome, it is recommended to use SeaCALM-containing products on the days after exfoliation to actively support floral recovery. Our article on Bakuchiol as a Retinol equivalent provides additional guidance for microbiome-friendly active ingredient combinations.
- Kelman, D. et al. (2012). Antimicrobial activity of algal extracts from the South African coast. Journal of Applied Phycology, 24(3), 629–638.
- Hafting, J. V. et al. (2015). Prospects and challenges for industrial production of seaweed bioactives. Journal of Phycology, 51(5), 821–837.
- Vijayabaskar, P. & Shiyamala, V. (2012). Antibacterial activities of seaweed extracts and its active fraction. Asian Pacific Journal of Tropical Biomedicine, 2(1), 38–42.
- Schikowski, T. & Hüls, A. (2020). Air pollution and skin aging. Current Environmental Health Reports, 7(2), 58–64.
- Dréno, B. et al. (2018). Microbiome in healthy skin, update for dermatologists. Journal of the European Academy of Dermatology and Venereology, 32(12), 2038–2047.
This article is for informational purposes only and does not constitute medical advice. For specific skin concerns, we recommend consulting a dermatologist.
